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Perfect Shade Matching in Dyeing by Using Only Colortools (Datacolor spectrometer)
(BUFT, 2013-12) Kamal, Md. Anwar
Though Textile Trade has been developed in the world on 114 BC, but after long time, during twenty first century, shade matching according to buyer approval has become a vital task. In dyeing factories it's a difficult task to match completely according to the buyer's given approval. Spectrometer can help a great for matching. Datacolor brand has already become a popular name in this trade. It has two softwares--- Colortools and DCIMatch. In Colortools, it shows dl*, da*, db* etc. that means amount of depth, amount of reddish/greenish and amount of yellowish/bluish respectively. But it does not explain how exactly shade should be matched to the standard. In DCIMatch, by taking correction recipe, a very correct recipe can be obtained. But it needs development of database for some years and also this DCIMatch is expensive. In Bangladesh around 60% of factories buy only Colortools. Here I have shown some result of my research, using that formula anyone can give a very useful correction recipe from result of Colortools.
Readymade Garments Industry In Bangladesh : A Critical Analysis
(BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT), 2013-12) Husain, Dr. Syed Masud; Al-Hasan, Ahmed Shihab
The present paper is a comprehensive description of Readymade Garments (RMG) Industry of Bangladesh based on secondary data touching on issues which are important in the present state of affairs. Readymade Garments Industry of Bangladesh started at a slow pace in late 1970s and has now become a major contributor to the economy. The industry has been contributing to export earnings in terms of foreign exchange, employment creation, poverty alleviation and the empowerment of women in Bangladesh. The export-quota system and the availability of cheap labor are two main reasons behind the success of the industry. Currently there are about 5150 units of RMG factories in Bangladesh. This sector accounts for about 70% of the total export earnings and about 10% of the GDP of Bangladesh. It is making significant contribution to the economic development of our country which is growing at an average rate of 6.25% per annum (GDP Growth). At present our country earns about $18 billion by exporting ready-made garments products to other countries. In terms of exports we are now second in the world. We have not achieved this success overnight but some important comparative advantages helped us in this regard. At present we are competing with our neighboring countries like India and China. Though we are earning a large amount of foreign currency each year from this sector, the readymade garment sector is suffering from a number of problems. Problems include narrow line of product & lack of market diversification, uncertain investment situation, lack of skilled manpower at mid level, labor related problems & capacity problems etc. We must address these negative phenomenons by ensuring appropriate steps. We have strength in low wage rate structure for labor, quota advantage, and government and institutional support etc. The garment sector has provided employment opportunities to women from the rural areas who previously did not have any opportunity to be a part of the formal workforce. Almost 80% employed labor force in the RMG sector consist of women. This has given a large section of women in Bangladesh the chance to be financially independent and have a strong voice in the family. The present paper encompasses a detailed description of the development of RMG Industry in Bangladesh, particularly focusing on the major policy issues, which needs to be streamlined appropriately.
Treatment of Coffon With Chitosan - An Initiative Towards Salt Free Dyeing
(BUFT, 2013-12) Bhuiyan, M.A. Rahman; A.H. Kafi; M.A.Hannan; Shaid, Abu
This paper presents the possibility of salt free dyeing of cotton fabric with reactive dye by treating the fabric with chitosan. In the experiment the fabric was treated with chitosan of different concentrations (1%, 2%, 3% & 4%) before dyeing. The chitosan treated fabric was then dyed with reactive dye without using salt. The dyeing performance and the fastness of shade have been analyzed by comparing the chitosan treated dyed samples with corresponding similar fabric samples dyed with salt. The dye absorption, i.e. K/S value, of chitosan treated fabrics was found as 1.6, 1.7, 2.2 and 2.9 respectively for 1%, 2%, 3% and 4% chitosan concentration whereas the K/S value of untreated fabric was 1.9. Though the fabric with lower chitosan concentration may not absorb dyes as much as the fabric dyed with salt, but when the chitosan concentration in fabric is increased, it is quite possible to obtain similar dye absorption or even better than that the fabric dyed with salt. Color fastness to washing, rubbing and perspiration were also analyzed. In case of washing and perspiration, chitosan treated fabrics have shown almost similar fastness ratings to untreated dyed fabrics. However untreated fabrics have shown better rubbing fastness specially wet rub.
The Influence of Fabric Weight in the Enzymatic Process (Depilling) of Cotton Knitted Fabric
(BUFT, 2013-12) Mondal, Moni Sankar; Haque, Md. Mahbubul
Enzymes are gaining an increasingly important role as a tool in various wet textile pretreatment and finishing processes (Stanescu, 2002; Thiry, 2001; Cavaco-Paulo, et al. 1998; Heine and Höcker, 1995)[12]. Within 5 to 10 years, wet textile production processing will be shifted from conventional wet textile pretreatment and finishing procedures substantially towards sustainable processes, because of increasing governmental and environmental restrictions and the decreasing availability of fresh water. We analysed the influence of enzymatic treatment process(depilling) using an acid cellulase enzyme on the different weight of cotton knitted fabrics(single jersey) at different time duration and find that depilling effect vary with fabric properties such as density of the fabric which is related with GSM of fabric. The action of enzyme hydrolysis was studied by pilling grade and fabric strength loss percentage.
Effects of Enzyme Concentration in Bio-polishing on Cotton Knit Fabric
(BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT), 2013-12) Kundu, Chanchal; Al-Mamun, Shipon; Khaleque, Hasib Bin; Yasmin, Sanjida; Rana, Masud
In this work, exhaust method was followed on undyed and dyed single jersey cotton knit fabric by Lava Cell, NBG enzyme with a varied enzyme concentration keeping all other parameters constant and thereafter different properties like handle, weight loss, absorbency and pilling of treated samples were assessed. Additionally the fastness properties for dyed fabric were evaluated before and after enzyme treatment. The enzyme used in this work was acid stable cellulase enzyme that also worked at neutral condition effectively and compatible with some other enzymes and dyeing processes. The tested samples were treated with various enzyme concentrations like 0.5%, 1%, 1.5 %, 2% and 3%, at 600 c temperature for 30 minutes with M:L l:20 at neutral bath condition with a medium mechanical agitation and thereafter enzyme deactivation was carried out at an elevated temperature. The hand feel of tested sample was optimum with 2% enzyme concentration and weight loss tendency was increased with the increase of concentration %, and considerable weight loss was noticed up to 1.5% conc. range and it was severe with 3% concentration both for undyed and dyed samples. Enzyme treatment after dyeing lowered the pilling resistance properties of dyed materials but escalated color fastness properties. However, the tested samples treated with 1% and 1.5% concentration showed acceptable values in all cases especially from a minimum fiber damage perspective.
An Application of Taguchi Loss Function in Apparel Industry: A Case Study
(BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT), 2013-12) Kaes, Md. Imrul; Chowdhury, Nusrat Tarin
Ready Made Garments (RMG) sector is the single most important and biggest manufacturing industry in Bangladesh which is earning nearly about eighty percent of the country's total foreign currency. Having more than six hundred garments factories, almost all the sewing machines and their spare parts are imported from foreign countries. At the time of manufacturing these spare parts, produces set some tolerance with the nominal value which is quite acceptable to the buyers. But Genichi Taguchi believes that for parameter design any deviation from nominal value causes loss to the society including producer and buyer even though parameters are well within specification limits designed by the producer or given by the buyer. This paper deals with a case study which shows the monetary loss from a sewing machine part though the producer is supplying the part within specification limit by applying Taguchi Loss function.
Barriers of Readymade Garment Industry in Bangladesh
(BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT), 2013-12) lslam, Md. Tarikul; Afrin, Shaharia; lslam, Mollah Aminul
At presents in global market, both the quality of garments and the working environment cherish the retailers and manufacturers. The Readymade Garment sector exports constitute about 76% of Bangladesh's annual export. Garments sectors also provide employment to 1.80 million females and indirectly 10 to 12 million people. The global clothing trade phase out of quota restrictions and forming of trade blocs has become a reality. RMG industry has been able to show its robust performance and competitive strength. There is $5 billion worth of exports made by Bangladesh globally. Bangladesh's economy will be affected by the issue of quota system. The quota system has particular significance for the export of Bangladesh apparels to the foreign market. Bangladesh is largely struggling for the country's garment industries day by day. The garment industry of Bangladesh has been the key export division and a main source of foreign exchange for the last 25 years. Many workers block roads, attack factories, goes on strike, destroy cars and buildings. Every day telecasts news of fresh strikes in a variety of industries, mainly the ready-made garment (RMG) sector. The shift from a rural economy to an urban, industrial economy is integral to the process of economic development by proper using of readymade garments. This article presents a detailed narration of the evolution of the RMG sector from its humble origins to the present day.
CriticalAnalysis of The Impact of Product Development on Rbadymade Garments (RMG) Sector
(BUFT, 2013-12) Mohiuddin, Morshed
The dynamics of markets, technology, and competition have brought changes to virtually every market sector and have made new product development one of the most powerful business activities. The monumental changes that constantly impact commerce have forced companies to innovate with increasing speed, efficiency, and quality. In turn, this has made new product development one of the most complex and difficult business functions in anywhere. A firm's new product development efforts are shaped by its size, as well as the nature of the industry in which it operates. New products may be defined as any product, service, or idea not currently made or marketed by a company, or which the consumer may perceive as new. Many types of new products exist, from never-seen-before products. Various studies suggest that between 50 and 80 percent of new products fail-the greater the rate of new product development, the higher the failure rate. Although there are numerous reasons why new products fail, faulty management and planning are at the core of most failures. Therefore, managing the new product development process is a key to a healthy organization.
Jute Processing in Rotor Spinning for Making Jute and Jute Blended Fine Yarn
(BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT), 2013-12) Mahabubuzzarrur, Dr. A.K.M; Khan, D.. Ayub Nabi; Miazi, Dr. Mtl. Osman Ghani; Alam, Alam
Jute is a natural bastfibre popularly known as the golden fibre. It has been used for thousands of years to made rope, twine and hessian. Recently jute has been considered as a technical fibre throughout the world for diversified uses, such as composite material, geo-textile, decorative fabric, fine fabric etc. A good quality yarn is essential for making desired fabrics/products. Selection of suitable spinning machine is most important for making a particular type of yarn. Spinning is the process where jute yarns are spun from finisher drawing sliver with the help of spinning machine. There are many type of spinning. Flyer and ring spinning are commonly used for jute fibre, however ring and rotor for cotton and manmade fibre. Rotor spinning is suitable for coarse and medium count cotton yarn. In this study jute and jute-acrylic blended yarns of 172 tex were produced by using rotor spinning and conventional apron draft flyer spinning machine. Characteristics of yarns produced by both systems were compared. This work reports how jute fibre can be used as raw material in short staple spinning process along with acrylic, polyester, cotton etc. fibre to make fine yarn for apparel fabrics. The present work is concerned with the investigation into physical properties such as tenacity, elongation at break, breaking work, breaking force, unevenness, thick, thin, neps, hairiness of jute blended rotor spun yarn. The process parameters such as blend ratio, twist, machine variables and yarn linear density were also studied and optimized for manufacturing of jute and jute blended yarn. The results show that rotor speed and twist have considerable influence on properties of yarn. From the mechanical/physical properties of yarn produces by using rotor spinning machine, it is clear that rotor spinning has a potential feasibility in use of jute yarn production.
Development of Responsive Camouflage Textiles Using Thermochromic & Non-thermochromic Colorants
(BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT), 2013-12) Chowdhury, Muksit Ahamed; B S Butola, Dr.; Joshi, Dr. Mongala
Development of responsive camouflage textiles by coloration of electrically conductive plain woven cotton fabrics with thermochromic colorants was undertaken. Electrically conductive cotton woven fabrics were prepared by using 100% cotton yarns in warp and a core sheath nichrome-cotton yarn in weft. The fabric thus prepared was made conductive by joining the conductive yarns in a way so as to enable the current to pass through the weft yams in parallel as well as series modes. The fabrics prepared were desized, scoured and dyed with thermochromic colorants and mixed thermochromic and non-thermochromic colorants. Passing current through the fabric generated heat, allowing the color of the fabric to be changed between two or more predetermined shades. To evaluate the camouflage textile in terms of performance and comfort, bending properties, moisture and air transport and thermal properties were measured and found satisfactory for using as defense application.
Effect of Maturity on Reflectance Percentage of Bleached and Dyed (Reactive Dye) Cotton Fibre
(BUFT, 2013-12) Rahman, Syed Atiqur; Nahar, Khairun; Mahmud, Kauser; Lizza, Jannat Ara
Maturities of five cotton fibre samples were measured in Hazi Hashem Spinning Mills Ltd, Narayongonj, Bangladesh on 21 July, 2011. Scouring, bleaching and dyeing of these cotton samples were performed in Delta Knit Composite Ltd., Gazipur, Bangladesh on 30 July, 2011. Reflectances of bleached and dyed samples were measured in Cotton Club (BD) Ltd, Gazipur, Bangladesh on 31 July 2011. It was found that with the increase of maturity, the reflectance percentage of both the bleached and dyed cotton fibres were increased up to a certain value then again decreased for comparatively high matured fibres. The increase of reflectance % are due to the increase of cellulose content in the primary and secondary cell wall whereas lowering of reflectance % after a certain maturity may be due to the formation of interior layer (consisted of mineral salts and proteins) adjacent to the lumen thus reducing the relative amount of cellulose content per unit mass of fibers.
ContemporarY Challenging lssues and Prospects of Garrirents lndustry of Bangladesh
(BUFT, 2013-12) Ali, Md. Idris At
The purposes of this research are to find out contemporary challenges and prospects of garments industries of Bangladesh. The researchers have revealed that the challenges faced by this industry are market concentration, absence of local raw material, nonexistence of quota system, lack of technology and slower rate to adaptation, lack of market oriented design, lack of prompt banking a service, political unrest and labor unrest. Prospects of this industry have also been found in this research which is low cost producer, low labor cost, diversified market, and China's attention to heavy industry leaving garments.
Development of the Student Management System (SMS) for Universities in Bangladesh
(BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology, 2014) Barua, Biman; Obaidullah, Md.
A great number of higher educational institutions are currently operational in Bangladesh and every year more are entering the market. Higher educational institutions are big places with many people involved and countless operations take place at all times. Traditionally, operations and transactions in such places are handled by paper based forms and systems. However, as the daily increase of places and human population; managing large organizations such as universities with pen and paper are becoming quite troublesome and are leading to tremendous amout of mistakes and mismanagements. Long ago, developed countries addressed this issue and ever since they have been using computers and information technology to handle such organizations effectively. However, in countries like Bangladesh, those solutions are not yet widely implemented; and therefore handling large organizations manually is becoming next to impossible. Only few universities in Bangladesh are using computerized automated systems to manage university activities. This work attempts to find out the statistics about the automated systems uses in the higher educational institutions in Bangladesh and also proposes a methodological automated system framework called Student Management System (SMS) that can replace the less efficient traditional system. Here, we tried to accommodate everything for a student from entering the university, to graduate and then to remain in the alumni association as well as other possible functionalities for the university management to serve the students better and to execute university tasks painlessly.